Just like any other hobby you need to be consistently persistent to keep it going well and alive. Thus, maintaining your freshwater aquarium becomes imperative not just for your sake but also to ensure good health and longevity of your pets.
Feeding
It is important to maintain a nutritious diet full of vitamins and other nutrients. You can get a variety of fish food at local fish store. Most of the freshwater aquarium fish would eat anything, be it flakes, pellets, live foods such as Daphnia or Tubifex worms, and even other fish. However, it is not good to feed large flakes or large lumps of fish food. Important is that the fish should like the food and the pieces should be small enough. You should feed your fish 2 to 3 times a day in small helpings. The thumb rule says that with good appetite your fish should eat the whole food in 3 to 5 min. If it is not happening then it indicates that you are feeding too much. Also remember that it does not harm the fish if they are kept on "fast" once or twice a week. It improves their appetite. After all, they go without food for weeks together in their natural habitat.
Water Chemistry Maintenance
Freshwater aquariums need partial water changes on regular basis. You must change at least 10 to 15% of tank water every week. Siphon out 10 to 15 % water from the tank and replace it with new, dechlorinated water. However, temperature of the new water should be close to that of tank water. You must monitor the water temperature, and other physical parameters as regularly as possible. There are special test kits available to test nitrite, pH, and the hardness of the water in your tank. Fish live best within certain parameters, which can be monitored by testing.
Ammonia and nitrite levels are very crucial parameters. They vary according to the various steps in the nitrogen cycle. The ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH levels should be every two weeks. Ammonia is produced as a result of waste excreted by the aquarium inhabitants. Ammonia gets converted into Nitrite during the nitrogen cycle. Nitrite level keeps rising if you do not change water and it reaches its toxic level of 0.1 ppm. It would no require 3 ppm of chloride ions to neutralize. Thus, you need to add chloride salt on regular basis to your fresh water aquarium. However, you just need to add a tablespoon salt in a 300-gallon tank.
Another water quality parameter of much concern in a freshwater aquarium is salinity or salt concentration. You must remember that even when water evaporates salt would not. Thus, without frequent water change the concentration of salt would keep going high. This high salt concentration can prove fatal for the freshwater inhabitants of your aquarium. First ones to be affected are plants and soon fish follow the suit. The reason behind this is disturbed osmotic pressure. Osmotic pressure can be described as the water trying to dilute the fish's body until both sides are equal. Therefore, freshwater fish constantly eliminate the water mainly through respiration and urine.
Higher levels of salt in freshwater aquarium tank can lead to osmoregulatory stress amongst the aquarium inhabitants. Yes it is true that salt can have first aid benefits in a fish tank but in the long run, as the concentration rises it does more harm than it benefits.
Many a times salt and minerals get deposited on the hood or edges of the aquarium. These deposits should be removed by scrubbing. You can use vinegar to remove stubborn deposits. However, ensure that all vinegar is rinsed off and you do not use any soap or detergent in the process.
Your tank looks good and your fish feels better if you give them a clean tank to swim in. So make sure that the water quality is not compromised with. Regular water replacement with fresh dechlorinated water is the best way to keep your freshwater aquarium's water chemistry under check.
pH and hardness are two other parameters that can cause havoc for freshwater aquarium chemistry. Most of the freshwater species are highly sensitive to pH fluctuations and the water hardness causing ions. The pH of the water should be close to neutral i.e. it should be between 6.5 to 7.5 in case of freshwater aquarium and the concentration of the hard water ions like calcium and magnesium ions should be low.
Algae
Algae deposit is one of the major concerns in freshwater aquarium maintenance. It can upset not just the water chemistry but also the aquarium ecology and be a ground for breeding disease-causing parasites. Sometimes if the aquarium has been medicated then the algae removal gets all the more important because the medication would get accumulated in the algae and the fish that consumes this algae might get poisoned. Algae generally get deposited on the tank walls, rocks and decorations, and the gravel. Thus, you must not just scrub the tank but also lean the gravel.
The first and one of the best ways of removing algal deposits from the aquarium is to have algae eating fish. This is a proactive approach. However, if you do not have any such fish in your tank and the algae get deposited then scrub it with brush, algae scrubber pad, algae scrapper, razor blade (for stubborn algae), or any other algae treatment method suitable for freshwater aquarium. Be careful that you do not scrub away the tolerable algal deposits, which assist in growth of some aquarium inhabitants. You should scrape the tank walls at least once a week. Also, clean the aquarium hood and scrape away any algal deposit on it a well. Do not use soap or detergent to clean away the algae. The chemicals in them may have toxic effect on the fish. Rather use ammonia free cleaner on the exterior of walls only.
To avoid addition of any new algae to the tank you must soak the new plants in a 1:20 solution of bleach in water. Let the plant be in it for two minutes then rinse it with cool running water followed by dipping it in dechlorinated water to remove any left behind bleach.
Bad algae problem can be solved by natural remedies. You can buy algae consumers such as aquatic snails. If you have live plants then be careful that you choose a snail variety that does not eat the plants. You can consider having Japanese trap door snails, Pomacea Bridgesi, mystery snails and Malaysian Trumpet snails. These snails will also eliminate the problem of leftover food and fish detritus deposit problem by consuming the two.
Gravel
Gravel is cleaned using a siphon with a funnel-like attachment or a strainer attachment. Submerge the hose in the tank and place your finger over one end and place other end in a bucket or sink. When you move your finger the water starts decanting into the bucket or sink. Be careful that the fish don't get sucked. After about 15 to 20% of water has been removed add fresh dechlorinated water. Smoothen the gravel after the cleaning.
You can also consider the natural way of cleaning the gravel or the substrate by introducing the Malaysian Trumpet snail that consumes the algal deposit, fish detritus and left over food.
Health of Inhabitants
You should monitor your aquarium everyday for any possible signs or diseases, stress or uneasiness amongst the aquarium inhabitants. See if there are any fish that have died or show symptoms of dying. Do not neglect the plants as well.
Many plants hibernate in a particular season of the year, i.e. they shed their leaves. Such plants should be transferred to another tank for that particular season. Trim the excessive growth and replant some of the live plants. Also, remove any dead or dying leaves from plants.
It is an advantage with keeping fish as pet that if you take little care of them and maintain good habitat conditions for them, diseases are a rarity. However, even when diseases occur there are some clear symptoms that, if observed carefully, can prevent the situation from going out of hand. For example, fish holding their fins tightly clamped to the body, fish swimming with the head near to the surface all the time, fish swimming with the head up or down, loss of color, ragged fins, scales sticking out or dropping off, and a general loss of appetite and condition.
Stress is one of the major killers in freshwater aquariums. There can be several causes of fish feeling stressed such as frequent fluctuations in water conditions, tapping on the tank walls, poor lighting, or a bad mixture of fish where one o two fish bully the others.
Fish disease can also be a result of protozoa. These are one-celled parasites that grow rapidly in number and affect the skin, gills and fins of the fish. Some recommend salt addition to the aquarium water. However, it can cause more damage than it would benefit.
Some of the common fish diseases are ammonia poisoning, nitrite poisoning, oodinium, mouth fungus, cottonmouth, White spot etc. while the first two are caused because of poor water quality maintenance the rest are either fungal or bacterial infections. For treatment you can follow four methods:
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Tank or Pond Treatment
- Bath Treatment
- Food Top Dressing (Usually Antibiotics)
- Individual Treatment (Wound Dressing or Injection)
In some minor cases of external parasites, flukes, fungus, etc. a salt bath can assist the fish in healing better. This is in part related to the benefits of osmotic pressure regulation.
Filtration and Cleaning
Longevity of the aquarium can be enhanced if it is kept clean. Aquarium should be cleaned on regular basis. Avoid heavy fish loads, sensitive species, or over-feeding. Change water as regularly as possible. To start off the cleaning process turn off all the electrical accessories.
Follow the tank and electric accessories manufacturers' instructions carefully while initiating the cleaning process. Do not use any disinfectant, soap or detergent to clean the aquarium. These chemicals can be toxic for the inhabitants.
Whenever you clean the aquarium do remember to clean the filter pads or compartments. If the filter has two or more media compartments, clean only one at a time so that the nitrifying bacteria population does no diminish. While cleaning the biological filter do not use hot water, rather use cold dechlorinated water. After the cleaning process gets over restart the filter. If you see bubbles are still trapped in the canister filter, restart the siphon. Then turn the power on and place back the aquarium cover.
Cleaning the outside of the aquarium is as important as cleaning it from inside. After aquarium are meant to add to the aesthetic appeal of the room interiors. Moreover, it also enhances the aquarium tank's longevity.
We have talked of filters being very important in maintaining the freshwater aquarium so it is important to know what are the various types of aquarium filters and what is the use of each of them.
There are three main types of filtration for freshwater aquaria.
1. Biological Filter: It is the most important type of aquarium filter since it eliminates toxic wastes such as ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia and nitrite are staple wastes in any biological setting. Both of them are highly toxic for the freshwater fish. A biological filter does denitrification of aquarium water. Where the nitrates are converted into Nitrogen gas. Nitrates are produced by action of nitrifying bacteria on the nitrites.
The most common type of biological filter are under gravel filter. They are also one of the most effective ones. These filters are placed under the bed of gravel. The reverse flow underwater filters are more effective because they utilize water from the surface of the aquarium, which obviously has more oxygen. Filter pads should be checked and cleaned every two weeks.
These filters also help maintain oxygen level through aeration using air pumps and Water current using power heads, internal power filters, circulating pumps, and spray bars from canister filters.
2. Mechanical Filters: These filters are used to keep water clear and free of debris. It removes the particulate matter from aquarium canisters using the pleated cartridges and power filters. The power filters force water though floss to remove the impurities. Many under gravel filters also act as mechanical filters and collect the debris in the gravel.
Diatomaceous earth filters are special type of canister filters that can remove the particles that are as small as 3microns. Some of the powerful varieties can also remove harmful bacteria and algae blooms. However, they clog after sometime so they need to be cleaned regularly.
3. Chemical Filters: They take care of the chemical quality of the aquarium water. The chemical impurities usually get dissolved in water so the mechanical filters are unable to remove them. This is where chemical filters come into action. They can remove any sort of coloring, odor or chemical impurity.
The most common types of chemical filters are the active carbon filters. They are part of canister and power filters. They have porous active carbon that traps the chemical impurities in the minute pores. They can remove copper, ozone, chlorine, antibiotics, some dissolved proteins and carbohydrates, iodine, mercury, cobalt, iron, methylene blue (a common medication), malachite green (another medication), sulfa drugs, organic dyes, and many other elements and compounds. Here it is important to note that if you are mediating your freshwater aquarium you should first remove the active carbon filter. Peat is used to bring down the pH and reduce hardness of water for species that prefer "blackwater" conditions.
There are several other types of filters as well. Some of the most common ones are:
1. Foam Fractionators or Protein Skimmers: Large stream of small bubbles is passed through a column of aquarium water. The proteins and other organic waste adhere to the surface of these bubbles and get removed from the aquarium. They prevent the harmful organic chemicals from entering the nitrogen cycle thus lowering concentration of nitrates and preventing effective oxygenation of water. However they also remove trace elements like iodine so they should be carefully used.
2. Ultraviolet Sterilization: Water is passed through UV rays, which destroy the harmful bacteria, algae and parasites.
3. Ozone treatment: Ozone is a strong oxidizing agent. Thus, when it is passed through aquarium water it oxidizes organic pollutants and kills harmful organisms. However after the treatment the residual ozone should be eliminated because ozone in water is highly toxic for fish.
4. Siphon Hose: A siphon hose is needed for water changes. Siphon hoses are available in a range of sizes and designs: from inexpensive hoses to long hoses used for both emptying and filling.
